Going under water, or rather, over the book.

When planning this whole round the world trip, I did a whole lotta research. I found some pretty nifty blogs and exchanged emails and messages with lots o’ peeps who were on or had done or were just about to leave for their own adventures. When a change of plans (i.e. we didn’t have enough money saved up) meant we were starting in Central America, one of those peeps, Cindi, inspired me and encouraged me to consider learning to scuba dive in Honduras. Now I love the water, but I usually shy away from any past time that could end in death. I guess I’m also a bit of a wimp. So I was conflicted. But Cindi convinced me that I’d love it and cautioned that I could even become addicted to it.

This was the reason for our next destination, Utila. The Bay Islands on Honduras’ Caribbean coast are supposed to be the cheapest place to get your scuba certification. Those who know me, know I love a good deal (notice I didn’t say cheap) so how could I resist. The Bay Islands are also one of the best places to learn because of the high concentration of instructors and the amount of dive sites. Quality and low cost - now that’s what I call a good deal. I was, however, still dealing with that whole wimp thing. But one of the schools I emailed were so accommodating and encouraging that on Monday morning we set off to Utila eager to get under the water.

We took a taxi to the ferry dock and paid what the driver asked for – it was too early in the morning (the Spanish part of my brain hadn’t yet woken up and neither had my desire to argue). There was a ferry getting ready to depart in the next half hour which was just enough time to count all the other backpackers waiting to get on board. I guess everyone is after the good deal.

The ferry itself was large and air conditioned – a lot different from the boats we’d taken so far – making the trip one of the easiest ones. As we pulled up to Utila, it bigger than I imagined – it even had a big hill/almost mountain at one end – a lot different from our last island adventure on tiny Tobacco Caye. But it was also very built up around the dock with cute guesthouses and waterfront cafes lining the sea – a lot different from what we’d seen in Honduras so far.

On the ferry dock, we all had to wait while the police dogs sniffed all the luggage for drugs. Then it was time to run the gauntlet of dive school reps who were there to greet the ferry. Unlike taxi drivers at bus stops, they didn’t hassle us at all and were helpful when I said I was looking for the folks from Cross Creek. Kim was one of the folks as she walked us over to the school we chatted. Originally from Barrie, she had working in the music industry before arriving in Utila a year ago. Now she was one of the instructors with no plans to leave anytime soon.

As part of our tuition we were getting a free room which had air conditioning and a private shower. No private toilet – that was down at the edge of the dock. It was rustic but clean except for the many mosquitoes and sand flies. There was also a kitchen so we could save some cash by cooking. Once we were settled in, we got our course stuff figured out. Kim wouldn’t be our teacher but Itamar would. He gave us our new PADI books and a whole bunch of reading to do before our first class the next day. Itamar suggested we just do the quizzes at the end of each chapter rather than read the whole thing. But since I still had that whole fear of death thing in the back of my head Adrian and I wanted to read it all. It was a lot to take in and I’m glad we have more than 24 hours to read it.

But after 4 hours of reading it was time for a break so we headed to the grocery store where we got a bit of a shock. Because Utila is an island, the prices were double if not triple. So rather than branch out, spaghetti was on the menu once again. Well, at least we get two free breakfasts during our stay – once we pay. I made dinner and then it was back to studying. Before we go under water we had to go over the book.

Star Trek III: the search for laundry becomes Star Trek VI: the undiscovered country.*

*Note: I have seen neither movie nor does this post have anything to do with Star Trek, I was just aiming for a catchy title for today’s entry. If you are a trekkie, you will be sadly disappointed.

About every two weeks our search for something to do becomes a search for a place to do laundry. We have about a weeks worth of clothes packed but wash them by hand wash every other week. But when you’re living out of a backpack there’s something decadent and comforting about the smell and feel of freshly laundered clothes. Most times the search is short and ends at the reception desk of wherever we’re staying. Today was not one of those days.

So I pulled out the 5 year old Lonely Planet. Now I’m sure you’re sick of me going on about this 5-year old Lonely Planet. It’s not its fault it’s old and out of date. It's Amazon’s fault. I ordered the new 2007/8 versions of the Central American Shoestring Guide but didn’t notice they’d sent me the 2004 versions until I actually got on the road 1 year later. It’s not a big deal when looking for a place to stay as so many places are on the internet. And as for the prices, I just double every one listed so it hasn’t been too bad – except when we’re looking for very specific things like Garifuna museums or places to do laundry. Knowing that the info in the book could possibly maybe most definitely be wrong, I asked the guy at the reception desk about where to do laundry. His suggestions were the same as the ones in the book so that was encouraging.

It was only 10am but it was already sweltering and carrying 10lbs of laundry it was even hotter. And none of the laundry places were around the corner. We headed to the first near the stadium trying to stay in the shade as much as possible. But when we got there it was closed – not open on Sundays. Le sigh. Okay on to place number 2 down at the south end of the city. But when we got there it was closed too – although the sign said it was supposed to be open. BLARGH! I guess it was hand washing once again.

But first we found a bench in the shade to sit on and cool off. I took my glasses off so I could wipe the sweat off my face. We guzzled the water we’d wisely brought with us then headed back to the hotel. About half way back to hotel I realized I’d left my glasses back on the bench. It was so hot I hadn’t noticed that I wasn’t wearing them. Adrian was not happy with me. So I left him under a shady tree while I went back to get them. On this lazy Sunday morning there was no one around and they were exactly where I’d left them. Phew. I joined up with Adrian and we went to find a nice air conditioned coffee shop before attacking the load of laundry.

Actually the coffee was the last thing I wanted but I needed some caffeine because the heat had sapped all the energy from us. And then to cool off, we followed up the hot coffee with some slushies and talked about taking a taxi to one of the beaches outside of town. But then Adrian discovered an easier remedy. While standing outside for a smoke he discovered the fancy hotel next door had a swimming pool. I went next door if we could use the pool – they replied of course for only 100L each (about $6). Sold! That would probably be the cost of a taxi to the beach and back but a whole lot easier.

But first there was the laundry. Once again Adrian to the rescue. He went looking for a place to hang out the clothes and found the hotel maid doing laundry… in machines! Unable to communicate with her, I went over and asked if it was possible to do some laundry. She said no problem and shook her head when I asked how much. She said she’d leave it on our room when it was done. I could have kissed her. Yay! now off to go jump in the pool. Maybe this fancy hotel had wifi too.

For the best 200 Lempiras money could buy, we spent the next 6 hours lounging in, by and around the pool. And decided there was no way we were going to a jungle lodge in this heat. And thankfully the hotel did have wifi so I was able to email the scuba place to let them know we were coming the next day rather than later in the week. Then it was back in the pool and repeat as necessary.

Second verse same as the first.

From everything I had read and heard about La Ceiba, I wasn’t looking forward to heading. Crime. Dirt. Drugs. And all sorts of general ickiness. But it’s a necessary stop to get to Utila so we had to do it. On a positive note, it was supposed to be the start of La Ceiba’s carnival, a week-long celebration and street party and that sounded like fun. So we set off in search of a good time.

A nice air conditioned taxi deposited us at the same gas station we had arrived at and 10 minutes later (and 15 minutes early) the bus pulled up. It was another non-airconditioned coach but with the windows open it was fine. Of course, we had to close the windows when it began to pour (photo above). But without the sun beating down it was still bearable inside. It was a short ride to La Ceiba where we were once again let off beside the highway. I guess they spent all their time and money on the giant bus station in San Pedro Sula and couldn’t afford any others in the rest of the country. And it required us to take a taxi which I might add was cheaper than the ones in Tela for a longer ride. We got out at the first cheap hotel on my list and they had plenty of room and two nights cost less than one night in Tela. Sure there was no air conditioning but we had a powerful fan, tv and private bathroom. Well at least we’re back on budget and that alone makes me like La Ceiba more than Tela. Yay we may be able to afford those scuba lessons after all.

Now it was time to find that street party. Our hotel was just a couple of blocks away from the central park. But since we’re in the English part of Honduras there was no cathedral or other municipal buildings. We found those around the corner. There were decorated for carnival but there didn’t appear to be any street party happening today. There wasn’t much of a beach so we looked at doing some nature tours or staying out of town but as the heat beat down the idea of being outside all day seemed less and less appealing. So we went for ice cream instead.

We headed over the bridge to the more backpacker part of town in search of a place to eat with lots of cooked vegetables. There was supposed to be a Chinese food place there but it was long gone (stupid 5 year old lonely planet). And our options looked limited. Most places were bars or looked really expensive which was weird because the area looked dodgy and not very inviting. After walkin as far on the strip as we dared, we ducked into one of the pricier places. I stuck with baldeas which are a Honduran bean and cheese quesadillas served with pickled veg – tasty. While Adrian went for the fajita and chips which interestingly enough came with a visit to the salad bar. Although, I find a salad bar in an open air restaurant in Central American in a town that has a certain stench, a little suspect. The best I could do was advise him to avoid the lettuce.

While we ate we noticed the bars across the street were suddenly very packed and very noisy not with music but with a football game. In fact every place with a tv was turned to the game including security guard in closed stores. Places without tvs had radios blaring out the play by play action. It was obviously an important match but it also meant that there was no evidence of the carnival that night. Actually, besides the bars everything was shut up tight. So we went back to our room where we watched the game. It was the Honduran championship - Olympia versus Real España. We didn’t know what cities they were from or even where the game was being played but when Olympia scored we could hear all of La Ceiba cheering. But there was to be no satisfaction tonight as the game ended in a 1-1 draw, a lot like our experience so far with La Ceiba.